Drills are a must have in every tool belt, whether you are a professional or hobbyist. However, they are also fairly large for what they do, and oftentimes, you need to drill a hole or drive a screw in a much smaller area.
That is where right angle drills come into play. With a head sits at a 90 degree angle, this type of drill can reach spaces other drills can only dream about. However, this type of drill also comes with a few more caveats than most.
Since its use is more specialized, there are fewer drills of this type that are simply good at everything. Instead, they often gravitate to one niche or another. That is why we have put together a list of the 9 best right angle drills 2018 and provided a comprehensive buyer’s guide to assist you with your selection.
Best right angle drill ‘December, reviewed
What is the TOP right angle drill on the market:
|Makita AD02W||12 Volts||800 RPM||3 1/2"||2.5 pounds||Check price!|
|DEWALT DCD740C1||20 Volts||1500 RPM||4"||8.25 pounds||Check price!|
|Bosch 1132VSR||3.8 Amps||1100 RPM||4"||-||Check price!|
|DEWALT DWD460K||11.5 Amps||1300 RPM||7.4"||21.7 pounds||Check price!|
|Bosch PS11-102||12 Volts||1300 RPM||4.2"||6 pounds||Check price!|
|Ryobi P241||18 Volts||1100 RPM||5.1"||3 pounds||Check price!|
|Makita XAD01Z||18 Volts||1800 RPM||2 1/2"||3.2 pounds||Check price!|
|Milwaukee 2708-22||18 Volts||1200 RPM||3 2/3"||14 pounds||Check price!|
|DEWALT DW120K||7 Amps||900 RPM||4 1/2"||15 pounds||Check price!|
Makita AD02W – 12-Volt, Lightweight, Ergonomic (Editor’s Choice)
I’m gonna do a quick tool review of the Makita 12 Volt Right Angle Drill Driver, whatever you want to call it. And if any of you guys have worked on cars in the last 25 plus years you know what this is.
This is a new version of my original Makita Right Angle Drill that I’ve had since 1993. I still have it, it still works. I still use it.
Believe it or not, even the battery keeps a charge.
That’s telling you something about the quality. So, I just picked up a new Makita 12 Volt Right Angle Drill Driver a few days ago and I wanted to review it. Because it’s the newer version of this and some things have changed, some things have not.
If you look at the size of it, it’s relatively the same if we overlapped ’em side by side. They didn’t necessarily make this a lot smaller. I would think that in this day and age that they would but they didn’t.
It comes with two batteries, a charger, a blow molded plastic case.
And of course batteries are lithium-ion so it’s gonna be quicker to charge, it’s gonna hold a little bit more juice when you’re on the go.
My original one, the chuck is shot. Can’t get parts for these anymore but, these tools are indispensable for anyone that works on cars whether you’re a mechanic, whether you’re doing restoration work on vintage cars, whether you’re doing car audio or radar detector installs on any of these new cars, you need tools like this.
You need a right angle drill that you can put different bits whether it’s torqued, whether it’s Phillips, whether it’s a nut driver to disassemble these cars.
It just makes your life a lot easier from talking apart blow panels, complete dash assemblies, anything under the car.
Like if you’re gonna do an oil change in an exotic car, let’s say a Ferrari, the bottom of the car has oil torques bits, torques screws.
Power and speed
This one only goes up to about 800 RPMs so it’s very delicate. It’s not gonna over torque or break anything but this has actually enough juice, to drill aluminum, steel, wood, plastic with no problems.
You could also drill screws into solid woods as well without even pre-drilling. This has enough juice to do that. Another useful use for these tools is assembling things. Anything around your house.
Kitchen cabinetry, anything from IKEA, any of the furniture systems that come shipped flat that have to be assembled, West Elm, Boat Concept, any of those manufacturers, grab a tool like this.
Especially because a lot of that stuff is particle board. You don’t want to use like a bigger, heavier duty tool. You want something low duty. But this is like a kind of like a mid-range duty and it’s really easy to use, really ergonomic, and like I said it’s 130 bucks. I mean you can’t beat it.
What could you buy today that’s gonna give you the drill, two batteries, a charger and a case? I mean it’s a total bargain. And you can’t beat it.
The chuck is, a keyless chuck, from Japan. Really good. Good quality. Good bearings.
And like I said it’s just a really good tool. So, I’ve been holdin’ off on upgrading this tool for a hell of a long time because it works.
I worked on hundreds of cars with this. And the old school one used to have a circuit breaker and I used to overload that a lot when I was drillin’ aluminum or metal or anything like that but this baby still works.
The only thing I’ve ever done on this tool, I just bought extra batteries over the years and a charger. I bought it in 1996 and it still works. Everything still works.
So I’m just gonna give you a quick overview of this tool. Anybody who’s worked on cars in the last 25 plus years you know this tool. You’ve had one.
The new version has a built in light which is great if you could see that here.
And keyless chuck. You got your forward and reverse levers right here. This one doesn’t have a circuit breaker like the old one. And this one also has air vents in the tool. Whereas this one has a very little vent here but like I said I used to overload this thing constantly.
It give you two batteries, a charger. Lithium ion batteries and gives you a really nice plastic case.
But before I do that I’m gonna weigh both of the tools just to show you how things haven’t progressed that much when it comes to certain things like this.
The original tool weighs, two pounds, 13 ounces. So it’s relatively light weight even for its time.
And then new one weighs, two pounds nine ounces.
So there’s really not that much of a weight difference.
There’s not that much of a size difference between the tools but like I said, even the RPM is actually the same. So you would think that this day and age that they would actually change this stuff but they didn’t.
I suggest this tool for anybody whether you work on cars, you work around the house, you’re HVACE, a general contractor, whatever.
This is a tool that you just have to have just for its versatility of the right angle, the low profile, everything about it. And a good thing about this, like don’t go out and buy like those cordless screw drivers.
The ones where the body of the screw driver bends. They have no torque.
The chucks that come with them are terrible. They always slip. And they’re pretty useless. Those things are totally useless and they’re like a few dollars less than this. So it’s totally a waste.
And like I said you can even drill with right angle drill, I mean this tool can drill a three quarter inch piece of build aluminum.
So, this little tool, it’s got a hell of a lot of power. Lot of juice and with the extra battery it’ll totally just make your life easier as far as not running out of charge and all of that.
Another thing you guys need with any kind of tool like this, and this is not an impact driver. That’s another set of tools all together.
I have the Makita Impact Driver and the drill set. The standard size. You guys got to get a lot of bits. If you’re gonna work on cars or do anything, you have security bits, you have torques bits, security torques bits, Allen head bits.
This is an indispensable tool.
The demographics that will find this Makita the best are those who require a greater degree of ergonomics. Generally, this rests primarily in the consumer grade market. However, due to the extreme focus Makita placed on ergonomics, this could find a spot for people who regularly need not only a small profile, but easier leverage.[wpmfc_cab_ss]First, the barrel of this drill is somewhat unique in that it features a far more ergonomically contoured barrel grip than any other drill on our list. Second, it is the lightest drill on our list, coming in at under 2.5 pounds without a battery. Finally, the profile of 3 ½” inches is the second smallest.[/wpmfc_cab_ss] [Red] In fact, only the following Makita offers a smaller profile or comparably light weight. Still, in an effort to make it easier to use, Makita put forth substandard power options.
DEWALT DCD740C1 20-Volt MAX – Best 20-Volt Option
However, this is a bit deceptive, as both 18 and 20-volt power tools provide the same amount of power when in use.
The 20-volt designation is the resting voltage. Still, the DeWalt does provide plenty of power, regardless of the measuring trickery.[wpmfc_cab_ss]At 1500 rpms, this drill provides the second highest maximum which allows it to drill more effectively than many other products we reviewed. Moreover, the DeWalt features 2 settings which allow you to easily switch from drill to drive operation.[/wpmfc_cab_ss]
Still, the sizes of this drill are less than ideal. First, the profile is only 4” which is not bad, but it is not good either. Furthermore, the ⅜” chuck is not suitable for all professional bits. Finally, its weight of 8.25 pounds with a battery is pretty heavy.
Bosch 1132VSR – Best Corded Option
In fairness, they put out the best consumer grade right angle drill in both categories, but it is still shocking to see their absence in the professional grade category.[wpmfc_cab_sd]Both drills suffer from the same issue: a lack of power. This drill, the corded one, only provides 3.8 amps. That is nowhere near powerful enough for a professional jobsite, though the maximum rpm of 1300 is still fairly impressive.[/wpmfc_cab_sd]
Still, the ⅜” chuck is not at all impressive, nor is it worthy of a professional grade drill. Thankfully, the profile is decent, but it is not even in the top 3 on our list, so that is more of a wash.
The ergonomics could be better. While 5 pounds is fairly good for a corded model, the trigger can be difficult to engage, even if its oversized panel makes it easier to hold down once you do.
DEWALT DWD460K – Best Framing Option
If you are a professional framer who needs a massive amount of power to drill and drive into studs and joists, the DeWalt is the best game in town. With 11 ½ amps, this is easily the most powerful motor on our list.
Moreover, the DeWalt features a decent 1300 maximum rpm with 2-speed settings depending on whether you need to drill or drive.[wpmfc_cab_sd]Furthermore, the d-rip handle and large overhandle provide plenty of leverage and stability. Unfortunately, you will need every ounce of that stability as this drill weighs in at a whopping 21.7 pounds.[/wpmfc_cab_sd]
There is no other drill on our list that comes even close to that. Moreover, that is not the only size limitation of the DeWalt. This drill also features the largest profile on our list at over 7”.
Essentially, electricians, plumbers, and HVAC specialists need not apply. However, it does at least feature a professional grade ½” chuck. Of course, that professional quality will cost you as this is one of the more expensive drills on our list.
Bosch PS11-102 12-Volt – Budget 12-Volt Option
This time, Bosch slightly misses the mark in the cordless right angle drill market. Specifically, the Bosch drill uses only a 12-volt motor rather than an 18-volt.[wpmfc_cab_ss]Still, this drill is able to generate an impressive 1300 maximum rpms as well as decent 115 pounds of torque. Moreover, the profile is solid at 4 ⅕” while the head pivots 180 degrees and can even be used for straight angle drilling.[/wpmfc_cab_ss]
Unfortunately, this drill further removes itself from truly professional consideration with a smaller than preferred ⅜” chuck, limiting the drill bit options. Finally, at 6 pounds, this is a bit heavier than you would want from a cordless drill–though not egregiously so.
Ryobi P241 ONE Plus 18V – Best Value Option
While the Ryobi may be the budget drill on our list, it provides a surprising amount of value for that price. In fact, if you do not find yourself often needing the full range of options for all types of professional jobs, this may be the best value on our list.
That being said, professionals should likely look elsewhere. For one, this drill features a profile over 5”. That is simply too large for many jobs. Moreover, the ⅜” chuck will limit the number of usable drill bits, while the maximum rpm of 1100 will make it less than ideal for drilling purposes.[wpmfc_cab_ss]However, this drill is exceptionally light at only 3 pounds, and if you have a full suite of cordless Ryobi products, this drill will use almost any battery the company produces. That last bit alone may be a game changer for a capable amatuer.[/wpmfc_cab_ss]
Makita XAD01Z 18-Volt – Best for Tight Spaces
While the previous Makita may have been made purposefully for ergonomics, this Makita was designed to fit into the tightest places any right angle drill and conceive of reaching. In fact, with a profile of 2 ½”, no other drill on our list can come close to the tight squeezes this Makita can fit into.
When you couple that with a weight of only 3.2 pounds, this is likely the better Makita for more people. Plumbers and electricians should generally look this direction based on those two qualities. However, this Makita scores highest on another all-important factor as well.
With 1800 maximum rpms and 121 maximum pounds of torque, the Makita can accomplish almost any standard task outside of framing that you might ask of it.
The only problem is that the variable speed control is determined exclusively by trigger pressure without a setting to force either drill or drive operation.[wpmfc_cab_sw]Another problem with the drill is that the motor will wear itself out fairly quickly when compared to other cordless drills. However, many professionals have resigned themselves to simply purchasing this product multiple times due to its overwhelming effectiveness.[/wpmfc_cab_sw]
Milwaukee 2708-22 M18 – Best 18-Volt Option
While this drill will not necessarily be the best suited for all situations, in the professional cordless right angle drill market, this is the best of the bunch. With an 18 volt motor and a maximum rpm of 1200, this drill has the power to accomplish all of your tasks. However, it is the head which makes it the best 18 volt.
Profile and chuck size
The profile of the drill may not be the absolute smallest on our list, but it is pretty close. At 3 ⅔” inches, only the Makitas offer a smaller profile. However, at this profile range, only the Milwaukee provides a ½” chuck allowing you to use the full suite of professional bits.[wpmfc_cab_sd]Unfortunately, the benefit of the Milwaukee’s small profile is somewhat lessened by a rather obtrusive overhandle. While it can technically be removed, it is neither a quick nor easy process to do so. Even worse, if you do remove the over handle, you are now stuck trying to leverage the Milwaukee’s 14 pounds from a rear position.[/wpmfc_cab_sd]
Finally, the Milwaukee is without question the most expensive product on our list–regardless the category. However, if you want a professional right angle drill in a cordless model, this is still worth the investment.
DEWALT DW120K 7 Amp 1/2-Inch Joist and Stud Drill – The Best Corded Right Angle Drill for Electricians
If you need a professional right angle drill with the power only found in a corded model, DeWalt has you covered. Still, this drill does have its limitations, especially if you need to drill holes. But if you are looking to drive screws and the previous DeWalt is too big, this is exactly what you are looking for.
First, the DW120K features the most powerful corded motor with an adequate profile at 7 amps and 4 ½” respectively. This will provide the power you need while still being able to fit into those hard to reach spaces the other DeWalt is simply too large to get at.[wpmfc_cab_sd]However, this drill’s maximum rpm is only 900 – well below the recommended rpm for drilling holes.[/wpmfc_cab_sd]
Moreover, the drill setting for this product is supposed to be 600 rpms, something that will often not sufficient. Ultimately, this means that this drill is designed for torque more than anything else.
Still, it does feature a ½” chuck to fit any professional bit you throw at it. Though, it does weigh 15 pounds which makes the side handle more of a necessity than an additional feature.
This is arguably one of the most important factors when choosing a drill – whether right angle or otherwise. In fact, this is generally one of, if not, the most important factor for all power tools. However, since a drill in general, and a right angle drill in particular, must deal with resistance while in use, this factor is even more important for this type of tool.
However, the power of a drill is not always the easiest to determine and will depend heavily on the power source. Right angle drills are powered by one of two sources: a cord or a battery pack. Corded drills plug directly into an outlet, whether from an electrical grid or a generator, while cordless drills use replaceable battery packs.
Cordless drill power is gauged by the voltage the motor uses, while cordless drill power is determined by the amps used. Corded drills generally provide more power, but cordless drills are easier to maneuver and can be used on a wider variety of jobsites. Considering right angle drills are for use in confined spaces, this is one of the few instances when a cordless model may be better than a corded model in most cases – despite giving up some power.
Speed and Torque
These two qualities have an inverse relationship with one another. The more rpms, or speed, the lower the torque. Of course, most drills of any type have variable speed settings. This allows you to determine whether you require more torque or more rpms as the situation calls.
Torque will be most important when you are using the drill and expect resistance. Hard grades of wood and other dense materials will often call for more torque than speed. If you are using the drill for materials like concrete or other stonework, high torque is a must.
Higher rpms are generally better suited for driving screw or drilling into softer material that is not quite as dense or rocky. A softwood like pine would call for less rpms than, while a hardwood like Balsa would be better suited for more rpms.
Many drills will have some sort of switch, lever, or knob which allows you to divert the power more towards torque or rpms. However, even with these types of adjustments, the drill itself will also likely have a pressure sensitive trigger that applies more rpms depending on how hard you hold it down. If you hold the trigger down less, the drill will produce more torque.
The size of the chuck, the part which holds the bit in place, generally comes in ⅜”. This is the standard for about 80 percent of all drills. Keep in mind, a ⅜” chuck will generally fasten a much larger bit depending on the size of its shank. In fact, a ⅜” chuck can often hold up to a ¾” bit.
However, the larger the bit, the more torque your drill will need. This additional torque will actually be required at higher rpms than is generally required.
For more professional jobs, a chuck of up to ½” may be required. Again, like the ⅜” chuck, the ½” chuck can generally fasten a bit much larger than its gauged size, though it too will require more torque to drive a larger classed bit.
This is arguably the most important factor that will have literally no impact on how well the tool itself functions. However, the profile of the right angle drill will heavily impact how versatile it is and where you can use it.[wpmfc_cab_ss]Quite simply, the smaller the profile, the better the right angle drill for its specified purpose.[/wpmfc_cab_ss]
Keep in mind though, as you begin to miniaturize the components of any power tool, you have to juggle a loss of power and durability. As such, getting the absolute smallest right angle drill may not always be the best option.
Moreover, some right angle drills are not actually designed to fit into extremely small areas. For instance, stud and joist right angle drills are used for framing where the obstructions are far fewer and the drill simply provides more leverage and power.
This component is an adjustable dial. It sits at the end of your drill, just before the chuck, and will have a ring of numbers. These settings determine how much resistance the drill will accept before disengaging. This will help keep the motor in good working order as well as prevent you from stripping the screw if properly adjusted.
The clutch is a component designed to assist you in drilling to the point that you need and no further. However, if you are a skilled enough user – especially if you are a professional – chances are you already know how to gauge the proper pressure and depth of the drill on your own.
Honestly, even if you are a weekend warrior, after enough uses, you will begin to familiarize yourself with the feel of the drill – through trial and error if nothing else. As such, the clutch can easily be seen as a convenient, though rarely necessary, secondary consideration.
For most power tools, this is a secondary or even tertiary consideration. However, due to the nature of a right angle drill, this is a top tier secondary or even a primary consideration. The reason is fairly straight-forward.
You use a right angle drill to get to hard-to-reach spaces. Quite often, if a space is hard to reach, it is because there is something larger that cannot be moved obstructed the location. While whatever obstruction that cannot be moved makes it difficult to fit a full-sized drill, it will also often block out natural or even artificial lights – depending on how cramped the quarters.
In this instance, an onboard light provides you with illumination to see what you are doing when you cannot otherwise get light to reach your workspace. This is especially relevant if you work in electrical or HVAC where many of the jobs require you to work in an attic or basement with little room and less natural lighting.
Chuck’s coms in 4 general types: hex, SDS, keyed, and keyless. However, keyless is by far the most common type of chuck for modern drills of most types.
SDS chucks are designed more for hammer drills and will rarely be found in more traditional drill types – including right angle drills.
Hex drills are also far less common because they can only hold screwdriver bits. This means a hex chuck cannot drill holes with a drill bit.
Keyed and keyless chucks both allow you to drive screws or drill holes. However, the keyed chuck requires you to tighten the chuck with a key. Changing the bits with a keyed chuck may take a bit longer, but they are fastened tighter and generally more durable.
Keyless chucks are far more convenient and allow a rapid change of different bits sizes and types. Moreover, you simply hold the housing of the chuck – the part that does not move – and can use the trigger to tighten or loosen the chuck and change the bit. However, this type of chuck does not get as firm a grip and will wear out quicker over time.
The ergonomics of a right angle drill will generally be determined by 3 factors: the grip, the weight, and the handle design–with the handle being the most important. The grip relates to how hard the handle is. Many drills provide some type of soft grip to make using the drill for longer periods of time easier.[wpmfc_cab_ss]Handles come in a few types for right angle drills: D-handles, sidewinders, or barrel grips. D-handles offer the most ease when using but can make it difficult to generate more leverage, depending on their design.[/wpmfc_cab_ss]
Sidewinders are a bit like a hybrid of a D-handle, with the trigger at the base of the tool, and a barrel grip, a handle type more common in other types of drills. Sidewinders also feature a handle near the head for additional stability, though this reduces the number of tight spaces they can fit into–especially if space is closed off on 5 sides.
Barrel grips are the most common type of handle for right angle drills, but they are also the least comfortable to use over long periods of time. Still, for general purposes, they allow you to generate more leverage and can fit into tighter spaces.
Bit holders, levels, depth gauge, belt clips, and cases are the most common extra features you will find on a right angle drill. However, few of these features even rise above the tertiary level of consideration.
Bit holders and belt clips are never a factor that should sway your decision unless the difference between 2 drills is razor thin. Cases are a necessity, but they are cheap enough when purchased separately that they too should not sway your decision all that much.
Depth gauges can be useful when you are a novice. However, after using a drill of any kind for long enough, you begin to intuitively know how deep you have drilled or driven. In fairness, the only extra feature on this list that is useful no matter what is the level.
The level will be a small, fluid-filled cavity located somewhere on the drill with a bubble in it. When the drill is level, the bubble will fall between two marked lines on a transparent lens. While you will develop the skill to naturally level for most types of drills over time, due to the nature of a right angle drill’s use and positioning, this feature can still be plenty useful even to grizzled old veteran professionals.
The best right angle drill is the one that suits your specific needs. Oddly, this one of the few power tool categories that sees the cordless models outperforming the corded ones. Of course, unless you are framing.
In that case, there is nowhere else to turn except the DEWALT DWD460K. With the most power, it puts framing jobs to bed with ease. However, if you still need a powerful professional performance with a smaller profile than a framing drill, DeWalt’s DW120K also takes that top spot.
Still, the show belongs to the cordless drills where Makita makes a strong showing for both the best all-around cordless and the most ergonomic right angle drill. If you are a weekend warrior, Bosch offers a decent consumer grade corded right angle drill, while the Ryobi is our pick for the best budget option.